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Household Power Saver
Household Power Saver - Efficent? What is the real truth?

A household power low voltage saving devices has recently received a lot of attention from both consumers and manufacturers. It is generally used in residential homes to save energy and to reduce electricity bills. It is a small device which is to be plugged in any of the AC sockets in the house (Mostly near Energy Meter). Moreover, some of the companies claim that their power savers save up to 40% of the energy.

Many people believe that the claims made by the power savers manufacturing companies are false. Almost all people who buy power savers do it to reduce their electricity bills.

Many people who have used these power savers said that they could reduce their electricity bills with the devices; however the reduction was not as much as they had expected. Moreover, they could not figure out if the reduction in electricity bills was due to the power savers or because of their efforts to reduce their electrical usage. There have been several serious discussions about the genuineness of the device.

In this note, we will try to find the real truth behind these power savers which claim to save as much as 40% of energy.

Working Principle of Power Saver as per Manufacture

A Power Saver is a device which plugs in to power socket. Apparently just by keeping the device connected it will immediately reduce your power consumption. Typical claims are savings between 25% and 40%.

It is known that the electricity that comes to our homes is not stable in nature. There are many fluctuations, raise and falls, and surges/Spikes in this current. This unstable current cannot be used by any of the household appliances. Moreover, the fluctuating current wastes the electric current from the circuit by converting electrical energy into heat energy.

This heat energy not only gets wasted to the atmosphere, but also harms the appliances and wiring circuit.

Household power saver device - Schematic diagram
Household power saver device - Schematic diagram

Power Saver stores the electricity inside of it using a system of capacitors and they release it in a smoother way to normal without the spikes. The systems also automatically remove carbon from the circuit which also encourages a smoother electrical flow. This means that we will have less power spikes. More of the electricity flowing around circuit can be used to power appliances than before.

Basically it is claimed that Power savers work on the principle of surge protection technology. Power savers work on straightening this unstable electric current to provide a smooth and constant output. The fluctuation in voltage is unpredictable and cannot be controlled. However, the power savers utilize current fluctuation to provide a usable power by acting like a filter and allowing only smooth current to pass through the circuit. Power savers use capacitors for this purpose. When there is a surge of current in the circuit, the capacitor of the power saver stores the excess current and releases it when there is a sudden drop. Thus only smooth output current comes out of the device.

Moreover, a power saver also removes any type of carbon in the system, which facilitates further smoother flow. The main advantage of power savers is not that they provide a backup system in times of low current, but that it protects the household appliances. It is known that a sudden rise in the power can destroy the electrical appliance. Thus, the power saver not only protects the appliance but also increases its life. Moreover, they also reduce the energy consumption and thus the electricity bills.

The amount of power saved by a power saver depends on the number of appliances on the electrical circuit. Also, the system takes at least a week to adapt itself fully to the circuit, before it starts showing its peak performance. The maximum amount of voltage savings will be seen in areas where in the current fluctuation is the highest.

Household Power Saver Scam Review

Power Factor Correction for residential customers (home owners) is a scam? At most, each unit is worth as an investment. Power factor correction does make sense for some commercial / industrial customers.

Many companies are promoting and advertise that their Power Saver unit are able to save domestic residential power consumption by employing an “active power factor correction” method on the supply line. The concept seems pretty impressive as the concept is true and legally accepted. But practically, we will find that it’s not feasible.

To support above statement first we need to understand three terms:

  1. Type of electrical load of house,
  2. Basic power terminology (KW, KVA, KVAR).
  3. Electrical tariff method of electricity company for household consumer and industrial consumer.

There are basically two kinds of load that exists in every house: one that is resistive like incandescent lamps, heaters etc. and the other that’s capacitive or inductive like ACs, refrigerators, computers, etc.

The power factor of a Resistive Load like toaster or ordinary incandescent light bulb is 1 (one). Devices with coils or capacitors (like pumps, fans and florescent light bulb ballasts)-Reactive Load have power factors less than one. When the power factor is less than 1, the current and voltage are out of phase. This is due to energy being stored and released into inductors (motor coil) or capacitors on every AC cycle (usually 50 or 60 times per second).

There are three terms need to be understand when dealing with alternating (AC) power.

  1. First Term is kilowatt (kW) and it represents Real power. Real power can perform work. Utility meters on the side of House measure this quantity (Real Power) and Power Company charge for it.
  2. The second term is reactive power, measured in KVAR. Unlike kW, it cannot perform work. Residential customers do not pay for KVAR, and utility meters on houses do not record it too.
  3. The third term is apparent power, referred to as KVA. By use of multi meters we can measure current and voltage and then multiply the readings together we get apparent power in VA.
Power triangle
Power triangle

Power Factor = Real Power (Watts) / Apparent Power (VA)

Therefore, Real Power (Watts) = Apparent Power × PF = Voltage × Ampere × PF.

Ideally a PF = 1, or unity, for an appliance defines a clean and a desired power consumption mostly Household Equipments (The dissipated output power becomes equal to the applied input power).

In the above formula we can see that if PF is less than 1, the amperes (current consumption) of the appliances increase, and vice verse.

With AC Resistive Load, the voltage is always in phase with the current and constitutes an ideal power factor equal to 1. However, with inductive or capacitive loads, the current waveform lags behind the voltage waveform and is not in tandem. This happens due to the inherent properties of these devices to store and release energy with the changing AC waveform, and this causes an overall distorted wave form, lowering the net PF of the appliance.

Manufacture claim that the above problem may be solved by installing a well-calculated inductor/capacitor network and switching it automatically and appropriately to correct these fluctuations. A power saver unit is designed exactly for this purpose. This correction is able to bring the level of PF very close to unity, thus improving the apparent power to a great extent. An improved apparent power would mean less CURRENT consumption by all the domestic appliances.

So far everything looks fine, but what’s the use of the above correction?

The Utility Bill Which We pay is never based on Apparent Power (KVA) but it is based on Real Power (KW). The utility bill that we pay is never for the Apparent Power- it’s for the Real Power.

By Reducing Current Consumption Does Not Reduce Power Bills of Household Consumer.

Study of Power Saver in Domestic Load

Let us try to study Household’s Reactive-Resistive Electrical Load and Voltage Spike Characteristic by example.

1. Power Saver in Reactive Load of Home

Let’s take One Example for reactive Load: A refrigerator having a rated Real Power of 100 watts at 220 V AC has a PF = 0.6. So Power=Volt X Ampere X P.F becomes 100 = 220 × A × 0.6 Therefore, A = 0.75 Ampere

Now suppose after Installing Power Saver if the PF is brought to about 0.9, the above result will now show as: 100 = 220 × A × 0.9 And A = 0.5 Ampere

In the second expression we clearly show that a reduction in current consumption by the refrigerator, but interestingly in both the above cases, the Real Power remains the same, i.e. the refrigerator continues to consume 100 watts, and therefore the utility bill remains the same. This simply proves that although the PF correction done by an energy saver may decrease the Amperage of the appliances, it can never bring down their power consumption and the electric Bill amount.

Reactive power is not a problem for a Reactive Load of Home appliances like A.C, Freeze, motor for its operation. It is a problem for the electric utility company when they charge for KW only. If two customers both use the same amount of real energy but one has a power factor of 0.5, then that customer also draws double the current. This increased current requires the Power Company to use larger transformers, wiring and related equipment.

To recover these costs Power Company charged a Penalty to industrial customers for their Low power factors and give them benefits if they improve their Power Factor in. Residential customers (homes) are never charged extra for their reactive Power.

2. Power Saver in Resistive Load of Home

Since a resistive load does not carry a PF so there is not any issue regarding filtering of Voltage and Current, So Power = Voltage X Current.

3. In Voltage Spike / Fluctuation condition of Household Appliances

In above discussion simply proves that as long as the voltage and the current are constant, the consumed power will also be constant. However, if there’s any rise in the input voltage because of a fluctuation, then as explained above your appliances will be forced to consume a proportionate amount of power. This becomes more apparent because current, being a function of voltage, also rises proportionately. However, this rise in the power consumption will be negligibly small; the following simple math will prove this.

Consider a bulb consuming 100 watts of power at 220 volts. This simply means at 240 volts it will use up about 109 watts of power. The rise is just of around 9% and since such fluctuations are pretty seldom, this value may be furthermore reduced to less than 1%, and that is negligible.

Thus the above discussions convincingly prove that energy savers can never work and the concept is not practically feasible.

What happens when Power Saver is installed?

The Fig shows the result of using Power Saver. The air conditioner (which has a large compressor motor) is still consuming reactive power but it is being supplied by a nearby capacitor (which is what is in those “KVAR” boxes). If you were to mount it at the air conditioner and switch it on with the air conditioner plus you sized the capacitor perfectly, then there would be no reactive power on the line going back to the fuse panel.

If the wire between your fuse panels is very long and undersized, reducing the current would result in it running cooler and having a higher voltage at the air conditioner. These savings due to cooler wiring is minimal.

What happens when Power Saver is installed
What happens when Power Saver is installed

A further complication is that if you install the “KVAR” unit at the fuse panel, it does nothing for the heat losses except for the two feet of huge wire between the fuse panel and the utility meter. Many KVAR units are marketed as boxes that you install at a single location.

If your power factor box is too large, then it will be providing reactive power for something else, perhaps your neighbor.


Power factor correction devices improve power quality but do not generally improve energy efficiency (meaning they would not reduce your energy bill). There are several reasons why their energy efficiency claims could be exaggerated.

First, residential customers are not charged for KVA – hour usage, but by kilowatt-hour usage. This means that any savings in energy demand will not directly result in lowering a residential user’s utility bill.

Second, the only potential for real power savings would occur if the product were only put near in the circuit while a reactive load (such as a motor) were running, and taken out of the circuit when the motor is not running. This is impractical, given that there are several motors in a typical home that can come on at any time (refrigerator, air conditioner, HVAC blower, vacuum cleaner, etc.), but the Power Saver itself is intended for permanent, unattended connection near the house breaker panel.

And certainly not in the way the manufacturers recommend that they be installed, that is, permanently connecting them at the main panel. Doing that drags the power factor capacitive when the inductive motors are off and could create some real problems with ringing voltages.

The KVAR needs to be sized perfectly to balance the inductive loads. Since our motors cycle on and off and we don’t use the air conditioner in the winter, there is no way to get it sized properly unless we have something to monitor the line and switch it on and off capacity (capacitors) as necessary.

Adding a capacitor can increase the line voltage to dangerous levels because it interacts with the incoming power transmission lines. Adding a capacitor to a line that has harmonic frequencies (created by some electronic equipment) on it can result in unwanted resonance and high currents.

For commercial facilities, power factor correction will rarely be cost-effective based on energy savings alone. The bulk of cost savings power factor correction can offer is in the form of avoided utility charges for low power factor.

Energy savings are usually below 1% and always below 3% of load, the higher percentage occurring where motors are a large fraction of the overall load of a facility. Energy savings alone do not make an installation cost effective.

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More Information

Jignesh Parmar

Jignesh Parmar has completed M.Tech (Power System Control), B.E (Electrical). He is member of Institution of Engineers (MIE), India. He has more than 20 years experience in transmission & distribution-energy theft detection and maintenance electrical projects.


  1. Richard Riley
    Oct 08, 2021

    I think I got scammed as I purchased 3 of these devices and followed the instructions to a t. Since using these for three months my electrical bill is now doubled. Futher more after using these about 1 week later the light went out on 1 of them leaving me with 2. I have read many reviews on this product and have not seen many positive answers with this product. Therefore I am wondering why the lights do not work and also why my bill is twice as much as I was previously being charged. Something is differently wrong. Please reply ASAP before I am forced to take further action.

  2. John Havranek
    Oct 03, 2021

    I bought 3 of these waste of money devices last year. I monitored my electrical bill for 3 months. My bills were more than the previous year, and more than the previous month. I unplugged them, and my electric bill went down. Waste of money, ineffective!!!

  3. Karen Le Seure
    Sep 27, 2021

    Do these ever go bad or need replaced every so often?

  4. David
    Sep 20, 2021

    So why don’t manufacturers of electrical products incorporate power saving circuits ? Or do they

  5. Peter Kearney
    Sep 17, 2021

    In this house for 42 years my electric bill is usually around $1400. Last year i plugged one in next to my breaker panel and pse g l.i. Sent me a check for $454. I don’t know who is right but I cashed the check.

  6. cuervo setentaytres
    Aug 13, 2021

    Hmmmmm. I am confused about how these units can affect energy usage by plugging them into a two-phase 110v circuit. How does that account for typical central AC devices which use 3-phase 220v power connections ?

  7. Mike
    Jul 30, 2021

    As a consumer of the Power-Save ABET 2201 product in my house, I have a hot tub w/jets, pool w/filters, several refrigerators, freezer, 2 microwaves, forced hot air, hot water heater, toaster, gas stove, 2 washers, 1 dryer, 2 air conditioning units, 1 dehumidifier, many TVs, many computers, 5KW solar panels system, and a standby generator that kicks in whenever I lose power + 1/week for maintenance. I also have a eco-monitoring system so I can tell what lines are consuming how much electricity. I have a lot of stuff. I was told by the installer, that the capacitor would reduce costs by reducing spike demands as the capacitor would help condition the line. Exactly how much he could not say. What was explained to me was that the Power Company charges you monthly based on the highest Amperage you draw to determine the KW you will be charged for. They monitor the highest draw and use that in the calculation, even if it was only for a small fraction of the time. So no, I do not believe the capacitor in these devices supplies significant power to make up the amperage draw. I would need to install a powerful battery bank (tesla option?) to supply power nightly when the solar panels are not producing to insulate myself from power company charges. The solar panels+capacitor did reduce my monthly bill from $350/month to $150/month on average. However, there is a gotcha. The original power saver eventually burned out. When it did, it became a sink and kept drawing excessive power. My monthly bill went back up to $350/month, even with the solar panels. Not being an expert, I was not sure what to do. I turned off the power saver and the bill returned to close to normal. I have since re-installed a new power saver, but now I know these are only good for the warranty period and to keep an eye on it.

    So I guess it depends on how many motors you have in your house and when they turn on. I have many different devices, not counting the occasional power tool.

    And maybe I was fed a line of bull about how the power company assesses your monthly charge but that has yet to be disproven.

  8. jack goldwarg
    Jul 19, 2021

    Where is it best to install 2 units for a 100 amp. 220 V electrical system?

  9. Stanley
    Jul 09, 2021

    I am concerned that the writer does not understand the effect of voltage increase/decrease?!
    100w bulb at 220v does not increase to a 109w bulb at 240v. It increases to 119w !
    Simple Ohms Law calculation. Makes me worried about the correctness of the rest of the presentation. For the record, I also do not believe the power savings claims by the manufacturers of these devices.

    • trent
      Jul 13, 2021

      not ohms law…. watts law
      100/220 = .454545 amps
      p=.454545 * 240

      • Nick
        Jul 13, 2021

        Just done the calculation, it’s 119w however as the filament is brighter and hotter the resistance will increase which will lower the power drawn slightly.

        • Houston
          Jul 16, 2021

          Yea for Nick and the resistance of the tungsten will increase more than one might think so it will be closer to 115 than 109 or 119 with a 20 volt increase on the tungston

      • Jim Kirk
        Nov 13, 2021

        No – this wrong – you cannot use the same current value to calculate power after you change the voltage. The current is dictated by voltage by Ohms Law I = V/R

        So at 220V / by the current 0.454A = load resistance = R – 484 ohms which is constant.

        Now V – 240 / R – 484 = I – 0.495A

        So the power drawn by a 220V 100W bulb when the voltage is increased to 240V is

        P = V x I = 240 x 0.495A is 119W

        Using P = VI simply does not work.

        Getting back to the original issue – Power factor correction at the fusebox is always beneficial irrespective of VAR metering because reducing the Reactive power also redcues the True Power which is measured by the domestic meter, but it would be very expensive to install in domestic situations and would not be financially viable.

        Power cleaning is installed at the point of use of equipment – it will save a small amount of money but is normally used to protect vulnerable equipment (computers) from waveform spikes. This has been overtaken in the UK by the 18th Edition regulations which requires Surge Protection to be intalled at the fusebox.

        Power Conditioning is installed at the supply position and is a great energy saver as well as protecting equipment. It involves using capacitors to chop the peaks off the waveform at 230V. (In a 230V supply the peak voltage of the waveforms is 325V, therefore there is 95V of wasted energy on each cycle which is paid for by the customer It requires a large amount of equipment for a 230V 100A supply, would be very costly to install and dumps high values of power down the earth conductor – it is not permitted.

        This is what the Voltex energy savers claim to acheive

    • Jonathan
      Sep 08, 2021

      There are other issues with the article but that doesn’t change the fact that these plug-in “power saver” devices are scam products which will have no measurable effect on people’s energy usage or electrical bills.

      Those suffering from voltage spikes due to fluctuating distribution line voltages in their area should have an electrician install a whole-house surge protector into their main electrical panel.

      People who wish to reduce their monthly electric bill would be wise to invest in grid-tied photovoltaic solar from a reputable installer.

  10. Shanoona Mohamed
    Jul 05, 2021

    I am interesting in enary power saver

  11. Netsanet yitna
    Jun 30, 2021

    Can u show me the circuit diagram of those power saver

    • Michael Kemp
      Jul 03, 2021

      Can you show me a typical electrical schematic of a power saver box

  12. Britt Mcilwain
    Jun 18, 2021

    I think it’s ?

  13. martha gnanapoo
    Jun 17, 2021

    can I buy two unit and place in one at the hall downstairs and another one up stairs.
    do it help in reducing the electric bill . can my usage is high due to air condition 3 units
    on at night. I jus bought this power saver.

  14. Enmanuel
    Jun 11, 2021

    Really good article. Explains everything as it is. I came here because I had a doubt. It was cleared when I red “The Utility Bill Which We pay is never based on Apparent Power (KVA) but it is based on Real Power (KW).” That was all. Thanks a lot.

  15. Mike
    May 31, 2021

    You are ether full of shit or a dummy

    • Rob
      Jun 04, 2021

      Why’s that

    • Paul
      Jun 12, 2021

      Wow, Mike you’re a gem, aren’t you ?

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